November 2, 2007

I woke up at 4:10am, after 3 hours of sleep to go to the pyramids to see the sun rise. We all got down to the lobby, and got our boxed breakfasts in gift wrapped boxes (I love the Hilton), and headed out in the pitch black. We saw the pyramids and I thought it was eerie at first since it was dark and you were just approaching these massive pyramids that have been around for 5,000 years. We all sat in the desert as it got brighter and brighter. The great pyramid was hidden my fog, but the sun began to rose, and was burning off the fog, and one by one the pyramids appeared. It was so surreal. There were lots of camel riders around wanting us to ride the camels (but we had already planned to ride certain ones through the tour so we didn’t have to worry about it). We watched the sun rise, and then at around 6:30am, we got to ride a camel. Meg and I rode one, I was in the front, and she was in the back. Even though the whole bus of SASers were doing the same thing, our guide asked what route we wanted to take, and said we had to pay more if we wanted to do the long one (they always try to rip you off, so that’s why we paid a little higher price, but that way it was settled through the tour company and we didn’t have to worry). We went from the edge of the desert to the base of the 3^rd pyramid and back. It was really fun and our camel guide took lots of photos. Our camel’s name was Moses and Meg said “Kait, I can’t believe we are in Egypt right now at 6:30am riding a camel named Moses” and we just laughed at how funny life is. The camel was a pretty smooth ride for me, but I heard the back was rough, and people’s legs really hurt. It was scary when the camel kneeled up and down because you felt like you were going to fall over its head. We then got on the bus and headed to the middle of pyramids 2 (the middle) and 3 (the Great). We walked around one side of the Great Pyramid (which can fit St. Peter’s Basilica inside), and I was just amazed at the size of it, and its individual rock sizes. I always saw pictures of the pyramids, but didn’t really see up-close pictures and didn’t know how it would look. I also saw the opening where people dug out some rocks to try to find the opening of the pyramid. We then ran into a man trying to sell things, and he put a turban on Meg’s head (who he called “Rose” because she was “like rose from the Titanic”) he kept saying “free free” and we didn’t believe him, but he insisted on putting it on. He then wanted to take a picture with her, and wanted her camera, but I said no, and he pointed to the “tourist police”, which I saw very little of, but we were told they were helpful, but I never knew who’s side they were on. He pointed to the man, and he flashed his gun, which made me more uneasy than ever, and we just said no. He then wanted money, but we just gave him his turban back, and walked away and ignored him. Lots of Egyptians we met along the way kept telling us to tell other Americans to come to Egypt and tell them that it’s safe and that Muslims aren’t bad, which meant a lot coming from them. Meg and I then put our cameras on the bus, and headed into the middle pyramid (which is 445 feet tall and is the only one that has some of the original limestone left on it—on the top).  I didn’t even know going inside was an option, but I was so excited when I heard you could get tickets to do that. The inside was really narrow and you had to climb up and down, and it was really hot. There were other stairs up further but they had long since broken, and there was another room but it was blocked off because it was being excavated. We then got into the room the coffin was in. it was a large room with writing on the wall of the person who discovered the coffin and the date (a French name). I decided to climb into the coffin. I just laid there and couldn’t believe I was laying in the coffin of the person the pyramid was built for. So many things were going through my head—so much time. So much history. No one knows who was buried there because when they discovered it was empty because grave diggers must have gotten there before. I was laying in the coffin, and some other SASers came by and looked in and jumped so much because they thought I was a mummy. It was pretty funny. I didn’t know if it was disrespectful or inappropriate to go in the coffin, but I wasn’t the only one, and I figured I should because I like to experience everything. Sherri, Meg’s roomie, then scared me and said “I bet there is a curse on it and everyone who lies in the coffin dies” I thanked her and then she climbed in! I then met up with Molly and V and Jill from the other trip and we took lots of fun pictures around the pyramids or us touching the point, and jumping, and all sorts of things. We then drove down to the sphinx. There is a temple right next to the sphinx which is in ruins in the front, but it decent shape to the side. We walked through that, taking “model” pictures along the way (we asked a kid from SAS to take pictures of our whole group, and he got carried away and it was funny), and then wandered around the sphinx, taking more classic pictures and enjoying the view. The sphinx is a mixture of a man’s head and a lion’s body supposedly there to guard the pyramids. There is controversy though as to which was first—the sphinx or the pyramid (chicken or the egg anyone?) because many people think the sphinx was made after the pyramids to guard them, but it is off center, which doesn’t seem to make sense. Its nose is blown off by Napoleon’s troops during firing squad practice. We then drove through Cairo to go to the Citadel. On the way we saw the City of the Dead, in which a lot of poor people live. It is a city full of graves that are above ground (like New Orleans) but people live amongst them, and it’s a small town with a mixture of graves and people. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. It reminded me of Israel, even though I have never been there; it is just what I imagine it to look like.  We then got to the Citadel right before noon time prayer. The Muslims pray five times a day, and Friday, which is when we were there, is like their Sunday. One doesn’t have to go to the Mosque five times a day, but rather just prayer right where they are facing Mecca, in Saudi Arabia. We walked in, took off our shoes, and walked inside with ornate carpets inside. The ceilings were so high, and ornate, and there was a huge chandelier in the middle. We went into the courtyard, which was the original entrance, and there was a bell tower and very ornate gates over the windows. Our tour guide was so informative, and hardcore. Some locals were being loud and annoying some of us, and she went over and yelled at them in Arabic and then was like “so... anyways”. I liked her so much. We then saw Mohammad Ali’s grave (no, not the boxer), which was in the Citadel, and listed to a man praying, which was beautiful. We then had an hour of free time around the citadel so I wandered around alone, and saw the panoramic views of Cairo, with the pyramids in the distance, and then walked on the other side of the citadel where all the locals were gathering for the noon time prayer. I went and saw the area where two museums were, and then went into another courtyard where lots of school children (mostly 10-12 year olds) were gathered. Lots of them came up to me and took pictures with me and asked me my name and shook my hand and asked me about school. They spoke fairly good English (is that good English?) and I asked them about how they like Cairo, and if they like school, and they all said yes. One girl gave me a croissant with chocolate in it, which was sweet. One girl kept calling me “sugar” and she was so adorable.  A few of them followed me and kept saying bye and waving. They were so adorable. I felt like I got to get to know the locals the best when I was alone, and I really like being alone sometimes. I just can do what I want when I want, and I can think and take more stuff in. I then met my group, but only a few people were there, including my group leader, Meg (who is an RD—like an RA). We were all getting harassed by the older boys, so we decided to walk down to the buses. Come to find out, everyone else was on the bus, and we were supposed to meet there, and out leader just didn’t know—whoops! At least we didn’t get dock time ( time that you have to stay on the ship in a port for a certain amount of time for punishment for being late for your bus and holding up the whole group) because our leader was confused. We then went on a river cruise. We went on a huge boat, which reminded me of home here on ship. we had another amazing meal ( you can guess what I had—pita and hummus, and then a small banana like in India with Egyptian ice cream on top—which tastes like ice cream mixed with frosting, which is never a bad thing). I sat with some people I had never met, including a guy named Zach, who is really into photography, and they were really awesome. At first we listened to elevator music, but then there was live Egyptian music, and a belly dancer (who danced with students, and with Dr. Mac, our global studies professor, and a whirling dervish dancer (which is big in turkey, but also in Egypt on a smaller scale). This guy impressed me so much. He spun in circles for literally 10 minutes, and I didn’t get how he didn’t pass out. He has on a dress with flaps, and made shapes with his dress, and it was beautiful. I then went out on the front of the boat and watched as we cruised the Nile, and took it all in. Brit was sitting out there, and ended up falling asleep, and when she woke up she and another girl were the only ones on the deck and she was scared we left her for dead, and we all left. I really felt like our trip people really bonded and we all cared so much about each other, and everyone looked out for everyone else, and it was just really nice. We then headed to the large Bazaar. It was in an area with a huge mosque, and cute streets to walk down. I walked around the bazaar a while with Meg, then walked around on my own. I shopped a little, but then had 2 hours to just wander, so that’s what I did. I walked down side streets and saw how the locals lived. I saw sheep on roofs, on the street, old women with hunch backs and canes, which were picture perfect, and people selling fruit, and hookahs, and people walking with large bags and things on their heads. I had my head covered, and my wedding ring on, and I never felt safer and never got harassed. I feel like when I walk around with others, who are blonde for the most part, and don’t cover their head, I run into more problems than if I travel alone. I saw people selling vegetables on the street (literally) and out of truck beds with flies all over it. I know why you should never eat street food in countries like this. The whole area looked so ancient. I went into a spice store, and then ran into “Mike” who was supposedly from Ohio, but he hardly spoke English and was Egyptian looking. He wanted me to come into his shop, but I said no, and he said how he wanted to get a visa to go back to the U.S., but couldn’t, and wanted me to marry him. I continued to walk, but then had to turn around because I didn’t want to wander too far, and he got really excited and was like “did you change your mind!” Men are so bold in Egypt—you have to give them that! I was told numerous times that I looked Egyptian, which is hard to believe, but lots of SAS people didn’t even think I stuck out in a crowd because of my attire, which is a good thing. I walked down lots of narrow streets with large carts that almost hit you. You had to be careful and run over to the side of the street as these massive carts with people pushing them went by, or you would get run over. the streets are so narrow and there is so much going on. As I was walking back to the mosque, a man said the funniest pick up line ever. Someone bumped into me, and a man said “oops, you dropped something”, so I turned around, half walking still, and he said “my heart... will you take it”… I chucked and kept moving. Oh Egypt... how I love you. I saw the sunset, and saw lots of cats (which there are so many stray of) and walked around the mosque. All the men went in to pray, but the women couldn’t enter, and they all sat along the outside on carpets. A woman came up to me and asked if I was Egyptian or Muslim, and I said no, and she said that I was beautiful. She was so sweet, and talked to me for a few minutes. People in general were just so friendly and seemed to not be afraid to walk up to total strangers and tell them what they thought. On one hand it can get annoying but on the other hand, I think it’s a good thing. I’m all for telling people how you think and fell. I think we need more of that. We then went to the sound and light show at the pyramids, which remarkable.  It was dark out, and they have a show at the pyramids and sphinx. It’s narrated, and tells you about the history or the pyramid, and has voiced of the pharos, and sound affects of the happenings at the pyramid, and had music, and had lights that went along with it. It was so dramatic and made everything seem real. It made me realize, for the first time, how old these pyramids really are, and how many people have seen them. Napoleon. Pharos. Jesus. Everyone. Something was said in the narration which stuck out “Men fear time, but time fears the Pyramids”. Whoa. I didn’t want to leave when it was over, but we had to catch the bus back to Alexandria. We all got on the bus (after people stopped for a quick dinner) and we all slept on the way back for 3 hours because it had been a jam packed day. Meg got really sick on the way back, and my stomach ached that night, but I took Tums, and it went away. So many people for sick in Egypt from the food, which was surprising, but I didn’t get it too bad, which I'm thankful for.

            November 3, 2007

Today I traveled with Meg, Krista, and a girl I never met named Beth, who is from California and a really awesome person. I love how SAS allows you the opportunity to travel with so many different kinds of people.  I feel like I recognize most people on the ship, but don’t know a lot of them, and its great to be able to meet people and really get to know them when there is only a few weeks left of the journey. There are so many amazing people on this ship. we first wanted to walk to the catacombs, which Krista went to yesterday, and supposedly knew how to get there. She got a little lost though, and we asked numerous people how to get there, but we were going in circles. We asked for the catacombs and pointed to it on our map (it didn’t help that we had a map in German... the only language they had left) so much that Krista and I started signing a song with the word “catacomb”. We found Pompey’s Pillar, so we decided to go in there first. This is an area where a lot of ruins from the Roman times are. We walked around the area, and saw the pillar, which is the biggest in tact ruin, along with a lot of Sphinx’s and roman baths, and cellar holes. It was really interesting to compare those ruins to the ones I saw this summer in Rome. The ones in Rome were larger and vaster and more in tact, but these ones definitely had an Egyptian accent which I thought was interesting. We then walked up the street to the catacombs, which were a lot different from what I expected. The only catacombs I have ever been in was in Paris, in which you go underground and you walk through paths underground with literally thousands of skulls and human bones all around you. These catacombs had no bodies or bones, but rather empty shelves that bodies were. The catacombs were robbed a long time ago, so no one was left. They were actually discovered when a donkey fell through a whole in the area, and then the whole area was excavated and everything was discovered. We went underground via a spiral staircase, and just saw all the empty shells, the area where they lowered the bodies, and a case full of bones that looked like animal bones ( they were too large to be human). We then saw the main area where the catacomb owners, who were Roman, were buried. The stone was carved with dragons and beautiful scenes. There was a statue of the two people who owned the catacombs, and three coffins. We learned about the art work in and around the graves by another tour group’s guide that was there, and then we headed to the room where the families went to grieve when someone they knew died. This room had three long stone tables where people sat around and had a feast when someone died, and then every year on the anniversary of their death. We then went back above ground and saw more coffins there, and went into another area where there was another tomb that was painted. We then met Krista outside, who was talking to two men from Switzerland about China and its corruption and the controversy around the Olympics. I have heard a lot about this, and now, since I have been there, have my own opinions about China and they “government” (or as I like to call it, their “regime”). We then went to the Roman amphitheatre. We had trouble finding this because our map wasn’t that great. We asked someone in a car where it was, and they offered to drive us there, but we decided not to do that because of safety and you just don’t know who you can trust. We walked through a market where people were buying and selling food. This area looked like nothing else I had seen in Egypt so far. It was really crowded, and there were food scraps and flies and dead rats all over the place. It reminded me of India. We walked along that, and along the trolley tracks, which was a fun experience. Most people walked along the edge of the tracks because it was the only place you could walk, but trams kept coming, so you had to run to the side, and when you did you were in someone’s hut selling something because it was so tight. Sometimes trams came and you had to run into to people and duck to get out of the way. I thought it was a lot of fun of course! We then had 3 guys ask us where we were going, and they brought us to the amphitheatre, which was just 5 minutes away. Beth and I then went in and saw the amphitheatre, which was redone. It was found when people were digging ground for an important government building. Everything seems like it was found by accident! We got a guide who basically described the English sign explaining everything, and then we walked around. We walked down to the stage area, and stood on a certain spot where your voice echoes. It was like you were talking into a microphone, but you weren’t. When you were facing the audience, right at that spot, your voice was clearly audible, but if you turned around or got off the spot it was hard to hear. I thought it was amazing that people could figure this out so long ago—an old fashioned microphone. The amphitheatre was restored because it was in ruins when it was found, and now it looks perfect. There was also evidence of a school being very close to the amphitheatre because there were large rooms there with a slate that was used as a blackboard. We then walked around, saw more ruins, and then enjoyed the outdoor museum there. This was made up of lots of items found from dives in the Mediterranean from a city that is now underwater. There were lots of pictures of the city underwater and the dives and the process of raising the ruins and bringing g them down the street, and stabilizing them, and then putting them in the museum. It always amazes me that a lot of cities that were the center of living thousands of years ago are now underwater….but evidence of them still exisits. I really wanted to scuba diver around some ruins, but I ended up not being able to. We then headed to the ATM, and then walked along a road with all the embassy’s and a school for Russian, which we went into to get directions, but since we didn’t know Arabic or Russian, it didn’t help. We then went to the same restaurant we went to the first day over the boardwalk, and I had fata (a traditional Egyptian food with pita bread and rice and vinegar and garlic), and stuffed grape leaves. Meg and Krista then headed back to the boat at around 3pm because they didn’t feel good, and Beth and I decided to try to find the site where the old Alexandria lighthouse was. We walked to the library, and asked where the site was, but was told it was a half hour cab ride away, so we decided to just walk along the beach, which was really nice. we put our feet in the water, and looked for sea glass, then walked along the water, watching the sunset. We then got back to the ship, and Beth introduced me to Nasser, and man who had a shop right outside of the ship who Kelly told me all about the night before about how he was really nice and gave her good deals. He did cartouches (an Egyptian type of jewelry in which people have necklaces or rings with their names in it in hieroglyphics). I didn’t want another ring, so I asked if he could just put my initials in the ring I always wear (the big silver one with lots of room for engraving on it). I didn’t want to spend too much money, so I asked if he could do it, and he said he would do it for free. That’s how Nasser is. I went back to the ship because he said it would take a couple of hours, I journaled, had tea and ice cream (kind of like you daddy), and then bough Nasser a snickers bar and reeses because I heard he liked chocolate, and then went back to the shop with Kelly, who knew him from before. I got my rind, which is amazing, and Kelly and I just talked to him for about an hour. He told us about his wife, and how he travels to Italy a lot, and his son, and how he sets his own hours, and is going to take a vacation after the ship left because he was working for 5 days from early in the morning until all hours of the night. It was nice to sit down and just talk to someone from Egypt and get an incite into their life and culture.

            November 4, 2007

Today I did something that everyone says not to do—and I’m sorry parents—but I traveled alone, but I was very careful, and I have a good sense of whets safe and not, and it was amazing, and I’m not telling you until its done with, so you don’t have to worry now! I decided to sleep in until 9am, and skip breakfast because I had gotten little sleep the whole rest of the time. Christina had made me a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and put it on my bed side table which was such a nice surprise when I woke up. I didn’t really have a plan for the day because I had seen every big place to go to, so I was just going to wander and see where that left me. I was curious the whole time what the large building that looked like the U.S. Capitol building was across from the ship, so I decided to venture there first. I walked and walked, and there were no tourists anywhere, which was nice for a change. I saw where people lived, people with their children, and hanging up their laundry. I wanted to go to an orphanage, where lots of SAS people went on a trip, so I asked around but no one knew where it was. It was just as well because everyone who went said that there weren’t even any kids at the orphanage because they were all at school, so they just saw the facilities, and it was really disappointing. I ended up going past a school, so I walked in and wanted to wander around, but figured I should check in with someone first. no one seemed to care that a foreigner was in their school, no one even paid attention, but I asked the people at the front if it was okay to walk around and see the children. they said they only had older children there, and I wanted to see younger ones, so they said to go next door. The school next-door was an all boys school, and I thought that that would be overwhelming for me when I was alone, so I just continued to walk. I finally reached the building I was looking for, but it was blocked off. / it is a military building, and no one can get close to the building, or take close pictures of it. A man came up to me and was really nice and explained all this. I continued to walk, and saw where the President lives. I looked around the gardens a little (where the public is allowed). I then ran across the guard, who gave me a bouquet of flowers (it was the Egyptian Valentine’s Day, so maybe that’s why, or maybe he just liked me). It was funny because I was used to this treatment, but he was the guard to the President’s house, and as he was talking to me a taxi with a man in it flew right passed him and through the gate. The guard said “hold on” and ran after the taxi, and made them back up. I thought it was humorous that I distracted the President’s guard and a random taxi flew through the gate. I then walked up and down the beach which was gorgeous. I took my sandals off and walked in the water, which was a prefect temperature. There was a man in a scuba suite who was diving and fishing, and lots of other people along the water sitting in chairs and fishing. I walked in one direction but the man in the scuba uniform said not too because it was getting too close to the Presidents house, and I wasn’t allowed to.  The water was so clear, and it just was a nice change of pace from the city. Whenever I walk onto a beach in a city I feel like I can just take relax and unwind. The beach was fairly empty, and only a few fishers were there. there was some pollution, as well as lots of straw dogs, and a horse standing in the water, which was weird. As I walked along, I picked up lots of pieces of pottery with different designs and paint on them. I don’t know where it was all from, but the pieces were really pretty.  There were people making yachts out of wood along the beach as well. I had never seen ships being built, so I watched that for a while. Three of the stray dogs began to bark at me, and I got a little scared because of the dogs that almost bit me in South Africa, I turned around, which I learned one should do when being approached by dogs so they don’t feel like you are competing with them. A man came out and stopped them, and then asked me to sit down for tea, but I decided to keep on walking. I was just wandering, and ran across another school with hundreds of kids outside in the courtyard. I wanted to go in, but this school had security and you had to show ID and sign in to go in, so I figured I wouldn’t be allowed in. I then came across the Naval Museum, which is housed in this castle looking building right on the edge of the ocean. Come to find out, it is also the location of where the Lighthouse of Alexandria ( one of the original 7 wonders of the world) once stood ( not a 30 minute cab ride away after all—people tend to exaggerate I found out). I sat on a block near the water, and just relaxed and took it all in. Three school boys then talked to me and wanted to show me around. They showed me how to go in the museum, but I wasn’t that interested. I just wanted to find a place that I could snorkel, and also go to the largest mosque in Alexandria, which they said they would bring me to. These boys were younger, so I felt safe, and I trusted them. We first went to a small mosque right along the water with views of the water and the fishing boats outside of the windows. I decided that if you see one mosque, you’ve seen them all, but it was still interesting to see. We then got to the large mosque, which was a whole complex. There were fountains in the front, and it was on the Mediterranean, and was just gorgeous. They then brought me to the scuba place, but it was full for the day because of all the SAS kids who did it, and they didn’t offer snorkeling, so I couldn’t do it. Another time! The boys then left, and I ate a pear and had some water while sitting on the stones along the beach. I then walked to downtown, and walked along the middle of the street where there was a grassy area, and statues. I just went down all the roads, and saw stores, and people selling lots of books, and a bakery selling baklava and other amazing foods, and ran across a street completely full of every bank you could imagine. I passed the Opera House, and decided to go in. It was dark and empty, but no one said anything, so I walked in, and saw the inside, which was full of painting, and a schedule of events. They had festivals listed for November, and also a free viewing of “Babel”. I saw the seat and the stage, and then walked near Ramil Station. As I was trying to get to the mosque on the other side of the street (there was a train track in the middle of the road, and you couldn’t get around it), a man came up to me and wanted to be my friend. He said he was 21 and a University student, and wouldn’t leave me alone. I was trying to think how to get rid of him (he was harmless but just annoying) and he asked if I had a boyfriend, I flashed my trusty wedding ring, said I was married, and that was that. I realized that everyone respected that, which is good. I then finally made it across the street and went to a park with a bunch of busts of important people from Egyptian history. I then walked to the same restaurant (third time) and had some more fata while looking out onto the water for the last time. I just watched the traffic go by, the horse carriages, the water, and SAS people go by. I then walked along the boardwalk, to the bazaar, which wasn’t going on yet because it was only 4pm, and everything doesn’t start up until later, and then walked through another market with veggies and people selling live chickens to eat, and then went back to the port, and sat and saw the my last Egyptian sunset.